Upwind

You need to be able to use a lot of mainsheet tension as soon as you are on the wire, even a fair bit before the wire is required. It is important not to try to point too high (pinch). Set the mast rotation to point at the shroud until you are starting to get overpowered, then move it back towards the end of the rear beam.  The Downhaul should be sufficient to take all creases out, then a bit more if you are on the wire.  [Olly- I have a reasonable minimum amount of downhaul on at all times, using a scale on the mast to know how much to use.] If it's light, try more downhaul so you can sheet in hard without hooking the leech (have a look at the leech with your head by the mast, as you pull the downhaul, to see the effect.) As you get overpowered, more downhaul.

If you are still overpowered, lift the boards 10-15 cms, then finally let the traveller off 5-10cms.

Downwind

Sheet the main in moderately tight and cleat it. Get the boards up (not too far) and let the mast rotation off. (Note it is better to let it off on the side you will want to pull it in on when you round the mark!). You need to work out a set routine for this which suits you. When learning it is a good idea to let the traveller off in average winds to about where the Genniker halyard goes through the tramp. You need a reasonable amount of sheet tension as the breeze gets stronger. To begin with, When the wind picks up, say F4/5, drop the traveller off the same again and keep going if it picks up further. As you get better, keep it close to the middle and maybe have a little more twist in the main (less sheet tension)-but be careful- the mast needs some support. If you're trapezing downwind, or reaching, have the main quite tight and traveller close to the middle. Cleating the main feels very odd but you have to do it, if you have a moment you can fiddle with the mainsheet tension but normally you have your hands full. If you're looking for more heel to help get the hull up, don't pull the boards up so far (only have the straight top bit sticking out).

Outhaul

Is it worth playing around with the outhaul? The consensus is to set it and then leave it alone. To set it do the following - with a "normal" amount of downhaul on, you can fit your fist sideways between the boom and sail- ie thumb end at the boom/ little finger end at the sail. Tape or tie up the tail so that the outhaul doesn’t come uncleated.

Releasing the downhaul

As with any thing that is under load.  When releasing the downhaul, try not to dump it violently.  Instead, initially ease the pressure off.

Kite

Capsize and recovery

When you capsize, try to avoid the boom as it can bend or break, especially if under load.  I prefer a triple pike through the gap between the boom and tramp.

Once the spray has settled its time to get it up.

If inverted;  You have to get the boat into the wind.  To do this stand or lay on the pointy end she will slowly swing around.  Now stand on the leeward transom using the recovery line for balance.  She will come up bows to the sky and then turn onto her side. 

Once on its side, if you had the kite up and its collected a pocket of water you will have to address this first dependent on your weight.  Then uncleat mainsheet and traveller. 

If you have not already done so, get the mast pointing into the wind.  Pass the righting line over the top of the top hull.  (This increases leverage and takes the strain off the rivets that secure the righting line).  Then wrap the righting line around your trapeze hook and lean back.  As soon as it starts coming up, the wind will take it the rest of the way.  Grab the beam on the windward side to stop it flipping over.  Scramble on board being careful not to puncture the hull with your trapeze hook.  This is the hardest bit and requires upper body strength or a few less doughnuts.
 

Tacking

As with tacking any boat that only has a main sail, once the boat is through the wind it is important to ease a fair amount of mainsheet to allow to the boat to come off the wind.  If its choppy, or your timing is wrong, ease a bit more.  These boats take a long time to get out of 'irons'.

Gybing

This can be quite exciting - in a breeze you need to steer through it quite precisely and gently and make sure that you do not harden up too far.   Always go in as fast as possible as the sail is under less load, I've assumed you are already back in from the wire...

1, If you have the traveller out; pull it back into the center as the main then has less momentum
2, If not already there, stuff as much of the mainsheet under the back beam as possible.
3, Bear off
4, Let the kite go
5, Continue to bear off
6, Gybe, dump old sheet and grab new
7, Sheet kite in roughly right
8, Resume proper heading
9, Sheet kite
10, If suitable, back out on the wire

If its windy, make sure the traveller is centered.  Make sure the main sheet is not loose and does not allow too much twist at the top of the main sail.  This forces the mainsail to be less powerful as it 'goes over' and more importantly, just afterwards.  If the wind is strong enough to make the gybe too lively for your technique\speed, slow the process down by going dead downwind before the sail goes over, and after the sail goes over.  Then sort out your positioning and spinnaker sheets before heading up and powering away.

If the boat flies high after the sail has gone over, keep the boat dead downwind and be ready to dump some traveller.